Bought my first thermal
- Thread starter Duhhh
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spotstalkshoot
Well-known member
I have had good target results with a 12" x12" cardboard covered with aluminum foil. For 200 yards zeroing, cut a 1"-1.5" square or circle. Tape a hand warmer to the back side of the cut out. This will give you a better cold/warm definition. Remember heat rises, so the thermal image of the hand warmer on the cardboard facing you can result in a slightly higher aiming point(as you put the reticle on the "center " of the warmer). Shooting south in the shade also helps.
I suggest when you cut the strips,fold them in half and fold the cut piece in half again. I try to make the strips as thin as possible. Also, you need to angle your target maybe 30 degrees to get the reflection from the sky. It’s a little tougher to see the HVAC tape at 200 yds than 100. Also put your scope on black hot instead of white hot, shows up better.
alf
Well-known member
I prefer Duck Brand Chrome duct tape from Wally World rather than HVAC tape.
The trick is to spray your scissors with silicon spray, makes cutting a breeze. I prefer a square aiming point, so it's easy to make any size you want, depending on the yardage you use.
The trick is to spray your scissors with silicon spray, makes cutting a breeze. I prefer a square aiming point, so it's easy to make any size you want, depending on the yardage you use.
This is what your target should look like. You can take small pieces of the tape and tape over the holes you put in the cross, if out of the cross use masking tape or something to mark your holes.
Bowhunt
Active member
The issue is that "most" thermal sights sit higher above the centerline of your bore than a traditional day optic. Scope height makes a difference when calculating ballistics.
spotstalkshoot
Well-known member
For 200 yards plus you want the target face cold, hot bullseye. For 100 yards I cut 2" wide insulated pipe wrap in half(length ways) about a 6" long piece on a cardboard backer. Make a simple cross, level or plum the cross when you put it up to shoot. Angle the bottom slightly toward your shooting position. And a regular scope your reticle remains centered, digital scopes you are moving the image projected on the display to the bullet impact.
Duhhh
Well-known member
Thanks for reminding me. For some dumb reason, I didn’t even think about scope height. I was going off of my day scope height, which was about .75 inches lower than the thermal.
Based on my new ballistics and previous target measurements, I don’t feel confident in my zero at all haha.
I got some hvac tape and will get a better zero tomorrow before I go out night hunting for the first time.
Duhhh
Well-known member
Yeah I get that part. Im just realizing thet sighted in with an inadequate target based on the examples above and my sight height being off. I think I’m close but will get it dialed tomorrow.
dirtytough
Active member
I would take a 1” square of hvac tape, stick it to a piece of cardboard, and sight in at 100 yards. Every time I’ve tried having a zero further out I start missing high. Definitely has to do with the sight height of the thermal.
Plus if you want to check zero it’s way easier at 100 yards than 200.
Plus if you want to check zero it’s way easier at 100 yards than 200.
Bradsbirds
Member
If you have it on auto "nuke" it will advise you 3 or so seconds prior to correcting so you'll know if you need to wait to take a shot.
Duhhh
Well-known member
Update: I’m out for the first night and got 1 so far. I’ve missed two easy shots that I thought I would never have missed. Not sure what happened but I’ve got a solid 100 yard zero now for the ease of things.
My key takeaways, this is harder that I thought it would be. All 6 coyotes I’ve called have circled a long ways down wind.
I also desperately need a scanner haha. I’ll make do for now but that’s on the short list.
My key takeaways, this is harder that I thought it would be. All 6 coyotes I’ve called have circled a long ways down wind.
I also desperately need a scanner haha. I’ll make do for now but that’s on the short list.
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Duhhh
Well-known member
I ended the night with 11 coyotes called in and only 2 dead. I missed three layup shots that have me stumped. One at 84 yards broadside, 250 yards straight on, and 199 yards broadside.
The miss at 84 yards was nowhere to be seen. Thought that was weird because I re zeroed before I went out tonight. I checked zero after that miss and was way low (like 8 inches). I re zeroed after that miss and was dead on at 100 again. Saved the zero and called in a double on the next stand. Had the broadside coyote at 199 and a solid hold on and good recoil management shot. I shot over its back. I’m a little stumped on that because I should have been about .55 inches low. I’m going to shoot this more at the range and see if I have a zero retention issue with the thermal. If not, I suck at night shooting and should stick to day hunting haha.
The miss at 84 yards was nowhere to be seen. Thought that was weird because I re zeroed before I went out tonight. I checked zero after that miss and was way low (like 8 inches). I re zeroed after that miss and was dead on at 100 again. Saved the zero and called in a double on the next stand. Had the broadside coyote at 199 and a solid hold on and good recoil management shot. I shot over its back. I’m a little stumped on that because I should have been about .55 inches low. I’m going to shoot this more at the range and see if I have a zero retention issue with the thermal. If not, I suck at night shooting and should stick to day hunting haha.
bohunr
Well-known member
check the owners manual on sighting it in. i have the bering optics super yoter and thought i had a zero retention issue until i re-read how to sight in. i had a step reversed in the sighting process which caused me to think i sighted it in but actually didnt.
once you get it sighted in, turn it off, then turn it back on and shoot again to see if its still set at zero
those straight on shots are tough, i missed two in a row, then killed several all broadside. i only take broadside shots now...mostly
dirtytough
Active member
I'm not familiar with your weapon sight. I'm assuming it has a QD mount with a lever.
I would make sure it is pretty snug on the pic rail but not super tight. Make sure it is shoved forward on the rail. Make sure the entire foot is engaging the rail.
After you zero like posted above turn it off and back on. Double check your coordinates to make sure they are the same and it is saving them properly.
I sight mine in, then pull the thermal off, put it back on, and shoot. I do that a few times. It gives me confidence that it's fairly secure and mounts properly between the rail and thermal. If I start having an issue it's probably the actual thermal and not moving on the rail.
A few other things I have seen personally through the years.
If using PIP sometimes the crosshair in the PIP window slowly moves off zero the longer the thermal is turned on.
Zooming moves the crosshair. Mount your rifle as securely as possible and click through the zoom ranges. Is the crosshair perfect on the bullseye every click or does it shift around? I sight mine in on whatever zoom range I expect to shoot most at animals.
I have had thermals lose zero and it was an internal issue that had to actually be fixed.
And it could be an issue with your actual rifle. I am assuming the action screws are torqued properly and the rail is also not moving.
It sucks dealing with a wandering zero.
I would make sure it is pretty snug on the pic rail but not super tight. Make sure it is shoved forward on the rail. Make sure the entire foot is engaging the rail.
After you zero like posted above turn it off and back on. Double check your coordinates to make sure they are the same and it is saving them properly.
I sight mine in, then pull the thermal off, put it back on, and shoot. I do that a few times. It gives me confidence that it's fairly secure and mounts properly between the rail and thermal. If I start having an issue it's probably the actual thermal and not moving on the rail.
A few other things I have seen personally through the years.
If using PIP sometimes the crosshair in the PIP window slowly moves off zero the longer the thermal is turned on.
Zooming moves the crosshair. Mount your rifle as securely as possible and click through the zoom ranges. Is the crosshair perfect on the bullseye every click or does it shift around? I sight mine in on whatever zoom range I expect to shoot most at animals.
I have had thermals lose zero and it was an internal issue that had to actually be fixed.
And it could be an issue with your actual rifle. I am assuming the action screws are torqued properly and the rail is also not moving.
It sucks dealing with a wandering zero.