Baiting

They can't all be purdy 06. The IR going out at recoil sounds like a weak spring holding the battery in place without seeing it. CONGRATS on another dead. I doubt this one will end up getting stuffed lol.
 
I see you got those 110 Varmagheddons working for ya, Dave. What load did you settle on?

That is the only bullet I've found that will shoot moa in my BAR. It will put 3 out of 5 touching then usually throws one or two out, opening group up to moa. They really put a coyote down though.

Regards,
hm
 
06:

Nice job on the coyote!

I agree with weekender that they IR illuminator going out due to recoil is probably because the battery springs are too weak. The recoil is bouncing the battery off the contacts and loosing conductivity.

Possible fixes:

--Take some pliers and stretch out the springs to put more tension on them.

--Put a conductive spacer in there to make a tighter fit.

--Replace one of the springs with a stiffer/longer one.
 

HM, my .308 load with the 110 Varmageddon is 47.0 gr. of IMR 4064. Since my bait site is 60 yards roughly from the shack, I sight in at 60. Three shots were going somewhere between 3/8" to 1/2". The Varmageddons are pure death on coyotes. I used 90 gr. Varmageddons in a 6.5 Grendel that was equally impressive.

CT, thanks. I will see if there's something wrong with the spring. I am using a TR-38 illuminator that I got from the UK. It is brighter than anything I have tried so far.

I had wondered myself about some type of spacer in the light. What specifically would you use? Anything that's common that might be lying around the shop?
 
06: I assume your illuminator takes an 18650 battery? I would see if you can stack a few dimes on the back of the battery. maybe a wrap of electrical tape around the battery and sides of the dimes to hold them together and in place. A wad of aluminum foil could also work.

I recently upgraded my IR illuminator options and got
1. Odepro "KL-52" on amazon.com
2. Sniperhoglights "Coyote Cannon" from sniperhoglights.com.

Have you tried either of these? I'm very impressed by them. They are both much better than what I was previously using.
 
Bait has been tight, no muskrat/beaver in the system. Deer haven't moved since first snow storm. Today a fresh road kill deer. Going to sit tonight in the pop up I used snowshoes to get in to position.
 
Sounds like a full case in the 308. I've found a number of accurate loads w/slower powders/full cases. My 110 load is 47.9gr H4895 for the BAR. Several of my books shows 49gr to be max (compressed).

I have nearly 8# of 4064 on hand, may give some a whirl.

Regards,
hm
 

CT, yes I am using the 18650 batteries. Today I went to a local computer repair shop and talked with a guy who impressed the heck out of me with his knowledge of batteries, specifically the 18650 batteries. He had a warning to not put a conductor disk or anything into the light. He said those batteries can cause some terrible explosions and fires. I was prepared to try to find a copper piece that would conduct current and place between the battery and a terminal, but after talking to him I backed away from that idea quickly. The guy showed me a difference in the batteries I had on hand. The Kill Light battery I was using when it turned off recently is slightly shorter, thus allowing more play between the battery and front and rear terminals. I have some Panasonic batteries that have an extension, thus longer. I am hoping these will work better. I plan to try it soon.

HM, yes it's full of powder but it shoots oh so good, and no pressure signs.
 
Quote:HM, yes it's full of powder but it shoots oh so good, and no pressure signs.

Gonna have to give it a try. Some of my best loads are w/case full of slow powders.

Regards,
hm
 
HM, it's a compressed load but shoots great.

UPDATE TO IR LIGHT ISSUE: This evening I tested a different battery, the one the guy at the computer shop recommended I use - the Panasonic battery. It worked. I shot a factory 180 gr. .308 load (which should have more recoil than the 110 gr. Varmageddon load) after dark this evening and the light did not shut off. Then I measured the Kill Light I had been using against the Panasonic one. The Kill light measures 2.613" and the Panasonic 2.715". The longer Panasonic battery has a tighter fit, thereby not allowing much "play" or looseness from terminal to terminal. The guy was not very impressed with the Kill Light battery. So, it appears his suggestion was spot on and my light problem is solved.

Here are the two batteries. The shorter Kill Light is on the left, and the longer Panasonic on the right. You can see the difference in length.


52621346287_0820609c79_b.jpg


 
06: I'm currious what that computer guy thought the risk was with a conductive spacer. It should have no ill effect on the battery. The only problem could be if you short circuited the battery. But making a tighter connection between the battery and the spring connector shouldn't harm anything. I'm glad you got it figured out though.

I have some .308 I loaded a few years ago with 110 grain Hornady V-max, 47.0 grains IMR 4064, and standard large rifle primers. It shoots well in my bolt action .308 1-10 twist. Sounds like you are running an identical load. I loaded it with coyotes in mind, but haven't shot a coyote with it yet. I prefer the lighter recoil of the .223 and .243. The .308 may connect with a coyote one of these days though...
 

CT, the guy said that a spacer could short it out if it touches the body of the light, and if too much pressure is put on the battery by tightening the cap that it can rupture and cause a serious fire or explosion, can release gasses that can burn. He said those type batteries really need to be handled with some care and safety procedures. He also cautioned about not getting them wet, and not allowing them to get too hot.

The Panasonic batteries i have are protected types and offer a bit more safety than non-protected. He said to not carry them loosely in pockets. I have a battery case that has an individual space for each one. The guy said so much that I can’t remember it all. I did come away with a better respect for those batteries.
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Last night made 20 nights since I have seen a coyote.


Persistence personified, well done. I go plenty of nights without a coyote but do it from my home lol.
 
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06: Ok, that makes sense. I did think through how it would affect the circuit if the conductor contacted both the battery and the side of the light. I should have specified better. Put the conductor on the back (negative) end of the battery. That way if it contacts the side wall it will just bypass the on/off switch on the back of your light and turn the light on.

If the conductor was on the front (positive) end of the battery and it contacted the frame of the light, and the light was turned on at the same time(The frame gets connected to the negative terminal when you click with on/off switch on), then that would create a short circuit which could damage the battery.

I'm pretty sure anyone with the knowledge of reloading, shooting, sighting in rifles, creating and operating coyote hunting bait stations.....will have the common sense to not crush a battery by torquing it too tight in a little IR illuminator. But I suppose crazy things sometimes happen....

If you want to use your short battery, You still can with a small conductor on the negative terminal (and electrical tape around the sides to hold it in place and isolate it from the frame). Use a spacer(or spacers) thick enough to make the over all battery length the same as your other battery.

If you don't want to mess with it and your other battery works fine, then that is fine too.
 
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