Some others will probably give you more bow experience but here's one guy's experience. You've got plenty of bow and cutting stick for what you propose. Whether you can shoot through a black bear's shoulder blade depends on the size and age of the bear. Old bones are harder, lots harder. Don't try a front to back angle on the shoulder blade, as the highest probability is that the arrow will slip off the bone and deflect outside of rib bones, under the hide but totally non-vital. If you have a broadside shot, go for the middle of the ribs rather than the shoulder blade. Go for soft, vital tissue with minimal bone. Quartering away is better, as with most critters. Go for the offside shoulder. I have shot a lot more bears with rifle, but got my biggest one with a bow. 55 lb. recurve, hit a little high and a little far back at 30 yards. Arrow zipped through the tenderloin just under the spine and appeared to accelerate as it went on past the bear skittering through the trees. The bear didn't slow it down it looked like. I had to replay the image of yellow fletching disappearing into black fur to be sure I hadn't missed. It cut the large arteries just under the spine. The bear whirled and ran 75 yards downhill, collapsing in mid stride.
Try your best to avoid frontal shots. About the only vital area is in the chest between the shoulders, and the bear's head will probably be covering that. Shooting a bear's head/skull is like hitting a wedge shaped greased anvil. I.e. Three head shot anecdotes:
1. A 30-30 round at point blank range hit a bear skull at low angle and dropped the bear instantly. On skinning, the hunter found that the bullet had skidded along the bone under the hide and over the top of the skull, ending up at the back of the head in the neck, but never penetating into the brain.
2. I saw a large bear skull that had a broadhead imbedded at a 90 degree angle in its sinus, with bone grown over it so it couldn't be removed. The bear had lived a year or two with the broadhead a smidge lower than between the eyes, long enough to grow considerable bone over it.
3. A friend of mine held at full draw on a whopper bear at about 8 or ten feet in a head on postion with a recurve, till he couldn't hold any more. He could see about an inch of chest alongside the bear's neck and tried to slip the arrow along the neck and inside the shoulder. Oops. Arrow hit bone and deflected outside the shoulder and rib cage, sliding along under the hide the full length of the bear to stick out over a foot from his rear end. Lots of pain I'm sure but nothing vital hit. The bear spun, roared and slapped at the end of the arrow sending it spinning high, and ran out of sight before it hit the ground. The bear ran off a short distance into the brush, pulled out the rest of the arrow and went on his way. The hunter wished that he had yelled at the bear or stomped his foot to get it to change position.
If you want to call them close, scout sign and call in a thicket where a bear lives. They will walk the same trails for days, especially if there is an old kill or food nearby. They make pad marks in the dirt, grass or moss, stepping in the same spot with each foot each time they pass, wearing down an oval depression for each step. Just make sure in thick stuff that you can see downwind. Never violate that rule. I face downwind, ready to shoot. The problem with calling is that you seldom get to look over the bear well before the shot so you may not be able to judge size, which is not easy to do on bears anyway. Ideally you want one whose belly drags the ground, with stubby legs not much more than feet on a fur ball. If he is tall and leggy and looks big, he's young, or skinny in the spring. Any bear with a bow is a trophy, and one called is doubly so. Good luck.
Looks like R. Buker gave some excellent words while I was writing this.
