Jack Roberts
Moderator - Deceased
The Lee hand primer is hard to beat. It has good feel, is cheap, and if you keep it greased will last forever.
Jack
Jack
help new reloaders
- Thread starter varmentwacker
- Start date
PlainsRedneckOK
New member
I know nothing about reloading, but one phrase seems to apply to everything I do know about. That phrase is: Quality over Quantity. Quality is safety, accurate loads, and consistent loads. Quantity is not being safe, in a hurry, pushing the limit of your loads, and going for velocity. I'm not saying a high velocity is bad, but it only makes sense to me for your load to be accurate first and fast second. If I am wrong please somebody correct me, but I have a feeling that I am at least close to right.
Night_Hawk
New member
Lots of good information here.Seems that most everything was covered.
I started handloading in the late 70's for my 243 using a Lee handloader (still have it)and now use a rockchucker press and somtimes a Dillon progressive press.
Over the years i have got myself into trouble a couple of times with two instances that stand out a come to memory often.
1st time was when i bought my son a BLR 243.The loads that i had been shooting in my 243 had always proved to be on the mild side and thinking that they would be fine in his. Wrong for sure.First shot blew a primer resulting in gas burn to face and eyes. I am glad that it was me and not him.Moral of story do not exchange handloads between guns.
2nd time was this last spring i was reloading some 223 amo for my REM 700P. I had just finished loading some 223 for my CZFS that will easilly take 4 to 5grains more Varget and H335 than the remington.I had bought a eletronic scale and weighing each load i had a senior moment and overloaded the ammo for the Remington. Result was a frozen bolt.Had i been using my balance scale set for the proper charge this would not have happen.The eletronic scale are great just be take care not forget what your doing.
NH
I started handloading in the late 70's for my 243 using a Lee handloader (still have it)and now use a rockchucker press and somtimes a Dillon progressive press.
Over the years i have got myself into trouble a couple of times with two instances that stand out a come to memory often.
1st time was when i bought my son a BLR 243.The loads that i had been shooting in my 243 had always proved to be on the mild side and thinking that they would be fine in his. Wrong for sure.First shot blew a primer resulting in gas burn to face and eyes. I am glad that it was me and not him.Moral of story do not exchange handloads between guns.
2nd time was this last spring i was reloading some 223 amo for my REM 700P. I had just finished loading some 223 for my CZFS that will easilly take 4 to 5grains more Varget and H335 than the remington.I had bought a eletronic scale and weighing each load i had a senior moment and overloaded the ammo for the Remington. Result was a frozen bolt.Had i been using my balance scale set for the proper charge this would not have happen.The eletronic scale are great just be take care not forget what your doing.
NH
Aznative
New member
Some ramblings about mistakes and things I've made/learned over the years.
When I was a young family man, I needed money more than nice factory bullets. Making lead bullets is definately for the budget consious. Well out here in hot as hell Phoenix Az, you better not store the bullets pointing up in your truck with all that wax lube on a lead bullet. The wax melted, and ran down into the powder. A squid load was the result. The sympton was a bullet stuck in my barrel.
I'm a little more flush today, and I have about five loading manuals plus the small factory loading manuals. Plus, I use the loading data base that Hogdon, Imr, and Winchester have online: http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
I'm always looking at all the information I can find.
Today I have three electronic scales and one manual scale. This has caused some problems for me. Evan good scales will vary +- .2 grains. Sometimes this will cause a load to change or not work. One scale is a little high and the other is a little lower and wala you have a .4 gn variation.
I've invested into calibration weights. Sometimes it isn't good to have to much money. I've invested into calibration weights
As a general rule I've found extruded powders to be more tolerant of temp variation than ball powders. However, I've personally blew the primers out of some 308 loads shooting on a 117 degree day using an extruded powder the manufacturer claims to be temperature tolerant. If I'm working up loads in the summertime for hunting season, I'll keep my bullets stored in a cooler. I've been laughed at for this but it works. I don't do this if I want to test bullets under hot conditions.
Out here a car can get to 140 degrees in the cabin area with the windows closed. I use to keep some defensive ammo and a loaded gun in the cabin of a car. I still do, but I cycle it through every year. I've had ammo go bad after several summers. You would hear the hammer hit and a second later the gun would go bang.
Also as a general rule, I've found ball powders to be more load sensitive than extruded powders. In other words, a .5 powder charge change with ball powders can cause my groups size to change quickly and with greater size variation.
Beware of droppping extruded powders into anything smaller than 25/06 on a progressive. I have a 650 Dillon, and I have had H4831SC hang up in the powder bar because it clogged on the neck of a 243. It drops fine into a 2506. I've succesfully dropped varget into 223 with some reworking of my procedures on the 650. Never drop lincoln log IMR powders through a progressive. Just beware of this.
I have good very good lighting above my loading bench so my old eyes can actually look into the case and see the powder level when applicapble; plus, the 650 has a powder check system I use when I cannot physically see the powder level.
Many times I still charge all cases in a single step and will look down into the cases looking for a light or heavy load.
Beware of multi reloaded brass on semi's. Semi's tend to pull the brass apart internally just above the web. I've seen this happen after three shots on Federal brass in an M1A. As far as civilian brass, Federal wears out the quickest and they all will do this within 5 loadings. Military brass run through a machine gun is absolute worst for doing this. If you don't know what I'm talking about, find someone who shoots DCM High Power matches and have him show you.
I've seen it mentioned to only keep one type of powder on the bench. This also needs to be the rule with bullets. Don't shove a 180 gn bullet on a 110 gn powder charge. Also don't put a pistol or magnum primer on a charge designed for std rifle loads. Only keep one type of primer on the loading bench.
I rarely use magnum primers except on very large cases with ball powders. However, I'm about to start loading a 375 H&H. I'll be looking to see what they say in my loading manuals.
A good baseline is to shoot factory ammo through a chronograph. If your loads exceed the factory FPS, STOP SHOOTING.
A chronograph is a great tool. Buy one and get to know how to use it. I did.
If you cannot get a gun to shoot. Shoot match grade sierra. If they shoot good it isn't the gun. If you still cannot fing a load to shoot well, send the gun to a competent gunsmith. Check the sight mounts first, scope second, bedding third, etc, etc.
I started reloading for the savings. Today, I reload for the accuarcy.
I've been rambing like Carl Jung so I'll call it quits.
Aznative
When I was a young family man, I needed money more than nice factory bullets. Making lead bullets is definately for the budget consious. Well out here in hot as hell Phoenix Az, you better not store the bullets pointing up in your truck with all that wax lube on a lead bullet. The wax melted, and ran down into the powder. A squid load was the result. The sympton was a bullet stuck in my barrel.
I'm a little more flush today, and I have about five loading manuals plus the small factory loading manuals. Plus, I use the loading data base that Hogdon, Imr, and Winchester have online: http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
I'm always looking at all the information I can find.
Today I have three electronic scales and one manual scale. This has caused some problems for me. Evan good scales will vary +- .2 grains. Sometimes this will cause a load to change or not work. One scale is a little high and the other is a little lower and wala you have a .4 gn variation.
I've invested into calibration weights. Sometimes it isn't good to have to much money. I've invested into calibration weights
As a general rule I've found extruded powders to be more tolerant of temp variation than ball powders. However, I've personally blew the primers out of some 308 loads shooting on a 117 degree day using an extruded powder the manufacturer claims to be temperature tolerant. If I'm working up loads in the summertime for hunting season, I'll keep my bullets stored in a cooler. I've been laughed at for this but it works. I don't do this if I want to test bullets under hot conditions.
Out here a car can get to 140 degrees in the cabin area with the windows closed. I use to keep some defensive ammo and a loaded gun in the cabin of a car. I still do, but I cycle it through every year. I've had ammo go bad after several summers. You would hear the hammer hit and a second later the gun would go bang.
Also as a general rule, I've found ball powders to be more load sensitive than extruded powders. In other words, a .5 powder charge change with ball powders can cause my groups size to change quickly and with greater size variation.
Beware of droppping extruded powders into anything smaller than 25/06 on a progressive. I have a 650 Dillon, and I have had H4831SC hang up in the powder bar because it clogged on the neck of a 243. It drops fine into a 2506. I've succesfully dropped varget into 223 with some reworking of my procedures on the 650. Never drop lincoln log IMR powders through a progressive. Just beware of this.
I have good very good lighting above my loading bench so my old eyes can actually look into the case and see the powder level when applicapble; plus, the 650 has a powder check system I use when I cannot physically see the powder level.
Many times I still charge all cases in a single step and will look down into the cases looking for a light or heavy load.
Beware of multi reloaded brass on semi's. Semi's tend to pull the brass apart internally just above the web. I've seen this happen after three shots on Federal brass in an M1A. As far as civilian brass, Federal wears out the quickest and they all will do this within 5 loadings. Military brass run through a machine gun is absolute worst for doing this. If you don't know what I'm talking about, find someone who shoots DCM High Power matches and have him show you.
I've seen it mentioned to only keep one type of powder on the bench. This also needs to be the rule with bullets. Don't shove a 180 gn bullet on a 110 gn powder charge. Also don't put a pistol or magnum primer on a charge designed for std rifle loads. Only keep one type of primer on the loading bench.
I rarely use magnum primers except on very large cases with ball powders. However, I'm about to start loading a 375 H&H. I'll be looking to see what they say in my loading manuals.
A good baseline is to shoot factory ammo through a chronograph. If your loads exceed the factory FPS, STOP SHOOTING.
A chronograph is a great tool. Buy one and get to know how to use it. I did.
If you cannot get a gun to shoot. Shoot match grade sierra. If they shoot good it isn't the gun. If you still cannot fing a load to shoot well, send the gun to a competent gunsmith. Check the sight mounts first, scope second, bedding third, etc, etc.
I started reloading for the savings. Today, I reload for the accuarcy.
I've been rambing like Carl Jung so I'll call it quits.
Aznative
Lee makes two very good tools, one being the hand primer everyone swears by, and the other, the Auto Prime II, which works on top of your press.
Nice thing about the press one, it uses your normal shell holders, so you don't have to buy those extra. Also, if you have something that primes a bit hard, like military .223's that may not have the crimp removed too well, the II will do them fine. Finally, with the leverage you have on the press, you aren't forcing anything, and can feel the primer seat to the bottom of the pocket easily. Kind of like having a bigger hammer, and just tapping...
Nice thing about the press one, it uses your normal shell holders, so you don't have to buy those extra. Also, if you have something that primes a bit hard, like military .223's that may not have the crimp removed too well, the II will do them fine. Finally, with the leverage you have on the press, you aren't forcing anything, and can feel the primer seat to the bottom of the pocket easily. Kind of like having a bigger hammer, and just tapping...
Single stage is perfect for rifle work. However, should you be doing a lot of pistol shooting, that is where the progressives shine. I know guys who load on their 550 Dillons, for rifle, but they are skipping things they shouldn't: trimming, and cleaning primer pockets.
Of course you can remove cases at any station on a progressive, to do the things you should, but then why have a progessive?
Of course you can remove cases at any station on a progressive, to do the things you should, but then why have a progessive?
Mavrick10_2000
New member
Quote:
Any thoughts on the best way to load primers? My fairly new RCBS Rock Chucker has primer load function on the press. I notice the new ones have removed it and added the hand primer. What way is the safest and most preferred way to prime?
Use a hand priming tool like the Lee or RCBS. In my experience you get a better feel for the primer seating with a smaller hand tool than the one mounted on a press like the Rockchuker. I have a rockchuker and I didn't like the way I had to prime with the little primer adapter thing after three loads. I personally use the RCBS APS hand loader which requires an APS loader tool which is convenient and extra strips if you load for different calibers. If you don't have the extra money the LEE will serve you well.
Another key to feel is that I can feel when the primer pockets are loosening and discard the brass before it becomes a problem or label 1-3 pieces for dummy round use with a sharpie on the case and put it in my dummy load brass container. When I discard brass I crush the neck and body with pliers so no one should mistake trying to reuse it and put it in my bucket to someday take to recycle to get more funds for more reloading supplies.
Which brings up another point, create dummy rounds to work on your bullet seating and label them carefully and obviously. It can save working and possibly marring other good pieces of brass trying to get things seated properly.
To do this you'll need a bullet puller, which is a tool you should have on the bench as well. If you have ever worked up a load and it starts to show pressure signs before you reach your next loads with a higher grain powder increment you need to disassemble the higher charged loads and start assembling those cartridges over at a lower/SAFER powder charge.
Any thoughts on the best way to load primers? My fairly new RCBS Rock Chucker has primer load function on the press. I notice the new ones have removed it and added the hand primer. What way is the safest and most preferred way to prime?
Use a hand priming tool like the Lee or RCBS. In my experience you get a better feel for the primer seating with a smaller hand tool than the one mounted on a press like the Rockchuker. I have a rockchuker and I didn't like the way I had to prime with the little primer adapter thing after three loads. I personally use the RCBS APS hand loader which requires an APS loader tool which is convenient and extra strips if you load for different calibers. If you don't have the extra money the LEE will serve you well.
Another key to feel is that I can feel when the primer pockets are loosening and discard the brass before it becomes a problem or label 1-3 pieces for dummy round use with a sharpie on the case and put it in my dummy load brass container. When I discard brass I crush the neck and body with pliers so no one should mistake trying to reuse it and put it in my bucket to someday take to recycle to get more funds for more reloading supplies.
Which brings up another point, create dummy rounds to work on your bullet seating and label them carefully and obviously. It can save working and possibly marring other good pieces of brass trying to get things seated properly.
To do this you'll need a bullet puller, which is a tool you should have on the bench as well. If you have ever worked up a load and it starts to show pressure signs before you reach your next loads with a higher grain powder increment you need to disassemble the higher charged loads and start assembling those cartridges over at a lower/SAFER powder charge.
None of the various presses did a decent job of priming, IMHO. If you study the results of most of them, the primers aren't even seated squarely. One fellow who was kind of meticulous, insisted on priming with his press, and I quizzed him about why he insisted on using an inferior method; turns out, he would rotate the case, and seat it 3 times...effectively reducing the errors in the system. But, why? Though I'm no fan of most Lee products, their Auto Prime II is the best priming system I've tried. Its fast, has good feel, and seats the primers perfectly square.
coyote_grimreaper
New member
Start low and work up when tryin loads in your rifle, like Sam said, just because the load is near max it may not shoot worth a darn in your rifle. As for other hints, ask as many reloaders as you can the same question and you will get that many different answers. Then form your own opinion.
SkinWalker67
New member
Remember 2 different powders and 3 different bullets make 6 combinations... multiplied by how much powder you charge will give you hundreds of combinations. #1 Find a bullet that you like in the weight that you like. Then build a load to support it. Twist rates within you rifle can dictate the weight of the bullet. Fast twist rates 1:7 to 1:9 will generally like heavier bullets. Subsequently, the 1:9 to 1:11+ will like the lighter bullets. Wear glasses. TOSS the catridges where the primer feeds very easy. Don't over fill cartridge with powder.
oldmuleskinner
New member
Don't get tempted into loading some "light loads" for plinking at lower velocities.
Most rifle powders are designed to be loaded to where the case is relatively full. Reduced loads can cause a dangerous increase in pressure called detonation. It is most common in larger capacity cases using slow burning powders. An possible example of a reduced load that could be dangerous would be going from a 26 grain load in the .223 case, down to 10 or 15 grains. The theory behind what causes detonation is that the powder of a greatly reduced load can lay along the bottom of the case (lengthwise) when the rifle is fired from a horizontal position. Instead of the primer igniting the powder charge at one end of the case and then burning progressively through the charge (as it would in a fully loaded case), the primer ignition can flash over the exposed surface of the powder - igniting it all at once - resulting in detonation and sometimes disasterously high chamber pressures.
I have a good friend who was always a very serious and careful reloader. He lost his sight in one eye when a case separated in his .243 Sako while shooting reduced loads. He had previously shot many rounds of the same load with no problems.
There are suitable powders for shooting reduced loads - just be sure that you are following some reliable loading data.
Be safe and have a great day!!!
Most rifle powders are designed to be loaded to where the case is relatively full. Reduced loads can cause a dangerous increase in pressure called detonation. It is most common in larger capacity cases using slow burning powders. An possible example of a reduced load that could be dangerous would be going from a 26 grain load in the .223 case, down to 10 or 15 grains. The theory behind what causes detonation is that the powder of a greatly reduced load can lay along the bottom of the case (lengthwise) when the rifle is fired from a horizontal position. Instead of the primer igniting the powder charge at one end of the case and then burning progressively through the charge (as it would in a fully loaded case), the primer ignition can flash over the exposed surface of the powder - igniting it all at once - resulting in detonation and sometimes disasterously high chamber pressures.
I have a good friend who was always a very serious and careful reloader. He lost his sight in one eye when a case separated in his .243 Sako while shooting reduced loads. He had previously shot many rounds of the same load with no problems.
There are suitable powders for shooting reduced loads - just be sure that you are following some reliable loading data.
Be safe and have a great day!!!
In my reloading experience case prep makes a huge difference in accuracy, primer pocket prep, trim length and weigh and match the cases to get a good lot. DO NOT mix different brands of brass! I like to also rotate the case 180 deg after seating the bullet and reseat it again, I think it helps to make the round more concentric ... leading to better accuracy. I prefer the Lee priming tool, I seem to get a better and more consistent feel seating primers and like the RCBS pardner press for the same reason.
Hope this helps. Gary
Hope this helps. Gary
SodakJim
New member
If all the dos and don'ts haven't convinced you to give up the idea of reloading your own ammo, your ready to begin a fun hobby. This is where safety and attention to detail is critical to your success and continued good looks. The Gurus in these pages are giving you the benefit of many years of experience, but sometimes important things get lost in the translation and terms. If something doesn't seem right, check it out before pulling the trigger.
One final point: Think twice about about loading ammo for other people. I will do it sometimes for immediate family when I have developed the load for a specific gun. Even a good friend that thinks he was injured by a load you were good enough to provide, could take you to the cleaners in court.
One final point: Think twice about about loading ammo for other people. I will do it sometimes for immediate family when I have developed the load for a specific gun. Even a good friend that thinks he was injured by a load you were good enough to provide, could take you to the cleaners in court.
When buying manual's get one from your favorite bullet maker, another from your favorite powder maker and one from an equipment maker. The combination should cover most of what you need. And double check the loads against each other.
Double check which powder a load calls for. There are several that use duplicate numbers (not the letter with them) but the data is definately different. There is a rifle at a local store that was blown up because of this.
Double check which powder a load calls for. There are several that use duplicate numbers (not the letter with them) but the data is definately different. There is a rifle at a local store that was blown up because of this.
I am sure that by now that you are totally confused. I have been shooting/reloading since 1968 and shot my first benchrest match in 1969. I have really enjoyted the sport of reloading for accuracy.
When a new guy starts out, it is tough because we all want it all right now.
This is the time to set some priorities, and you have to ask yourself what is important.
To help out the new guy that wants to start reloading, there are some items that are paramount that you buy CLOSE to first quality first time around, and other items that will do more than an acceptable job for a long time to come that may be considered second quality(but they are not).
You can get by with a Lee press, but a Rock chucker from RCBS is one of the very best investments that you will ever make.
Forester/Bonanza Benchrest dies are fantastic money spent first time around, they go a long way in getting the bullet started straight.
An RCBS 10-10 Scale is one of the very best tripple beams ever built, and a RCBS 505 is second.
I have a $800 electronic scale that verifies the accuracy of both of these two scales and they are dead nuts.
I have a private rifle range that I shoot at, with a complete 3 sets of reloading equipment for me and my shooting partner.
Please send any questions to:
keithcandler@msn.com
Ackleyman
When a new guy starts out, it is tough because we all want it all right now.
This is the time to set some priorities, and you have to ask yourself what is important.
To help out the new guy that wants to start reloading, there are some items that are paramount that you buy CLOSE to first quality first time around, and other items that will do more than an acceptable job for a long time to come that may be considered second quality(but they are not).
You can get by with a Lee press, but a Rock chucker from RCBS is one of the very best investments that you will ever make.
Forester/Bonanza Benchrest dies are fantastic money spent first time around, they go a long way in getting the bullet started straight.
An RCBS 10-10 Scale is one of the very best tripple beams ever built, and a RCBS 505 is second.
I have a $800 electronic scale that verifies the accuracy of both of these two scales and they are dead nuts.
I have a private rifle range that I shoot at, with a complete 3 sets of reloading equipment for me and my shooting partner.
Please send any questions to:
keithcandler@msn.com
Ackleyman
rks1949
New member
Be sure to trim those cases! Most get a little lazy,and try to skip this step. A long case neck will cause high pressures in a otherwise safe load. You will find that speed is not the "king,"of shooting. Accuracy is more important. Most loads shoot their best at a 90% fill rate. It is very rare,that a max load delivers the best accuracy. A slow Hit,will beat a Fast miss,any day! Ron
Lots of great advice here. I hadn't really thought about the vacuum before, but will use a broom from now on. Here's my own cautionary tale that I haven't seen here yet. I had a beautiful new Cooper in .257 AI. One day I pulled the trigger on what I thought was a normal load. Click, no bang, empty casing when I opened the bolt, so I put a light down the barrel and the bullet was jammed just ahead of the chamber. As near as I can figure, I missed putting powder in that one and the primer drove it into the barrel. Despite what I read on the web, that bullet would not come out, even after I bent a brass rod with a hammer to drive it back. I ended up sending it to Cooper who did their usual class act thing and rebarrelled the gun for free. Lesson learned - Now I weigh each finished loaded round of every batch. If it's more than a grain off, it gets recycled. Like the carpenter says "Measure twice, cut once. This routine also will catch double charges (from being distracted while loading) and is much more reliable than a flashlight. You do need a good electronic scale, not cheap, but I can check 50 rounds in a very few minutes and I then feel much better.
The biggest thing that will help new reloaders is to learn to humble themselves and ask questions...no such thing is a dumb question. A great reloading manual is the Nosler Manual, Hornady reloading manual, and the Sierra Reloading manual. Every new reloader should invest in all three if at all possible.
If/when questions arise, come to this board and ask for help...we all had some precious person take us under their wing and help us learn. Sometimes the internet is a faceless non-personal place to be, but there are some very special people on this board that devote themselves to serving others.
If/when questions arise, come to this board and ask for help...we all had some precious person take us under their wing and help us learn. Sometimes the internet is a faceless non-personal place to be, but there are some very special people on this board that devote themselves to serving others.
wendle
New member
I am VERY new at reloading and would like to know about using Red Dot powder for reloading .204 with Winchester primers and a 40 gr v-max Hornady bullet.
Also am planning to reload 22-250.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Dumb as a rock. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Also am planning to reload 22-250.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Dumb as a rock. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
RTLOF18918B
New member
Quote:
i have notice there seems to be a lot of new guys that have started reloading.i think we should let these guys know a few things to keep them safe.here are a few things that i have come up with. 1. always wear eye protection. 2.for you guys that are loading thier on pills right now during the cold months beware with some powders these loads are fine during the winter and cold months but during the hot months they can blow up in your face.i have seen this happen at our local gun range.thank the lord nobody got hurt.i mean there was chunks of the gun missing that could not be found.if you are pushing max loads during the winter do not shoot these during the summer.work some more loads up and pay close attention to the pressure signs.my self if i am using powders that are not extream powders (BL-C2) i try to find a load in the middle so i can use it year round.even at that you will not believe how these loads can change during the summer months.i work up most of my loads during the cold months because it dosent take long for barrell to cool.i am sure there will be a lot added to this but this is a good start.one of my fav sayings.a young man that rolls his own bullets wont be rolling nothing else.i have raised 3 boys and one nephew that proves this right.
Hail to all who have replied to this post. All is good, solid info and worthy of respect. Pay attention to all of it. One thing I have not seen mentioned yet is rate of twist in the barrel. 1 in 12 vs 1 in 9 etc. This will also affect accuracy and pressure. Pay attention to this in the manual vs your rifle. If yours is different than that listed back off on the charge a little. Also if you are loading a Speer bulett use only Speer data not Sierra or Nosler. If you must use another manufacturers data, back off the powder charge by 10% and work up.
Of all of the loads I've worked up for my rifles, the best ones seem to be in the middle of the specs. But those are JUST my rifles. As someone mentioned, Atmospheric temperature has a lot to do with pressure. What max load shoots ok in the winter when it's cold may be way over pressure in the summer. Also be careful of magnum primers in this situation. A mag primer while elk hunting in Montanta in the winter time at 20 degrees may be way to much for Nevada or Arizona in the summer time. If you have any questions about any of this conact someone on the forum or a reputable gun shop. Remember, As said before, what shoot great in one rifle may not shoot well in an identical rifle. Firearms are as different as people are.
Just my 2 cents worth.
RTLOF(TONY) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
i have notice there seems to be a lot of new guys that have started reloading.i think we should let these guys know a few things to keep them safe.here are a few things that i have come up with. 1. always wear eye protection. 2.for you guys that are loading thier on pills right now during the cold months beware with some powders these loads are fine during the winter and cold months but during the hot months they can blow up in your face.i have seen this happen at our local gun range.thank the lord nobody got hurt.i mean there was chunks of the gun missing that could not be found.if you are pushing max loads during the winter do not shoot these during the summer.work some more loads up and pay close attention to the pressure signs.my self if i am using powders that are not extream powders (BL-C2) i try to find a load in the middle so i can use it year round.even at that you will not believe how these loads can change during the summer months.i work up most of my loads during the cold months because it dosent take long for barrell to cool.i am sure there will be a lot added to this but this is a good start.one of my fav sayings.a young man that rolls his own bullets wont be rolling nothing else.i have raised 3 boys and one nephew that proves this right.
Hail to all who have replied to this post. All is good, solid info and worthy of respect. Pay attention to all of it. One thing I have not seen mentioned yet is rate of twist in the barrel. 1 in 12 vs 1 in 9 etc. This will also affect accuracy and pressure. Pay attention to this in the manual vs your rifle. If yours is different than that listed back off on the charge a little. Also if you are loading a Speer bulett use only Speer data not Sierra or Nosler. If you must use another manufacturers data, back off the powder charge by 10% and work up.
Of all of the loads I've worked up for my rifles, the best ones seem to be in the middle of the specs. But those are JUST my rifles. As someone mentioned, Atmospheric temperature has a lot to do with pressure. What max load shoots ok in the winter when it's cold may be way over pressure in the summer. Also be careful of magnum primers in this situation. A mag primer while elk hunting in Montanta in the winter time at 20 degrees may be way to much for Nevada or Arizona in the summer time. If you have any questions about any of this conact someone on the forum or a reputable gun shop. Remember, As said before, what shoot great in one rifle may not shoot well in an identical rifle. Firearms are as different as people are.
Just my 2 cents worth.
RTLOF(TONY) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif