help new reloaders
- Thread starter varmentwacker
- Start date
One of my main manuals that I really trust is the Nosler Manual. Their accuracy loads have proven to be a winner in many rifles of mine over the years. Nosler bullets have also proved to be very close if not as accurate as the Match bullets that I made for many years shooting Benchrest competition.
When it comes to reloading, one thing that it leads to is more shooting.
One of the largest mistakes that most shooters make is not cleaning their guns on a regular basis. One little bit of information that most shooters are not aware of is just how fast a cleaning brush will wear out. I have been using the bronze bristle brushes from www.sinclairintl.com for many years and have never scratched my preicious custom barrels with them. Never, Never, Never use a stainless steel brush, they will scratch barrels.
The best cleaning solvents that I use are Montana Extreme solvent and Montana Extreme 50 BMG copper solvent which are both OIL based. Pushing 4 soaking wet patches of the regular Montana Extreme through the bore and leaving it over night will remove most fouling with one application of the Montana Extreme 50 BMG copper solvent getting the rest out withing 15 minute soak. I use the brushes when I have stubborn barrels and/or need to clean in a hurry.
A good rod guide is necessary if you do not want to lap your throat egg shaped over the years. There are two companies that make good rod guides that perfectly center the rod in the bore at this time, Neil Jones ( 814-763-2769 in Pa.) and Lucas. Rod guides never wear out, and are a great investment in your equipment, costing $35 or so.
Bullet seating depth is critical to maximizing the accuracy of your rifle, it is as important as your powder charge.
There are two tools that you need to measure your seating depth properly, a Over All Length gage made by Rajun Cajun who is a moderator on this board. Rajun Cajun's tool is very easy to use and accurate, and at $25 is a steal. Another tool that you will need to use in conjunction with Rajun's tool is a Ogive gage sold by www.sinclairintl.com called a Davidson ogive gage which will enable you to measue the seating depth off the ogive of the bullet instead of the point. Using these two divices, you will be able to measure the seating depth down to the .001.
Good luck in your new hobby!
When it comes to reloading, one thing that it leads to is more shooting.
One of the largest mistakes that most shooters make is not cleaning their guns on a regular basis. One little bit of information that most shooters are not aware of is just how fast a cleaning brush will wear out. I have been using the bronze bristle brushes from www.sinclairintl.com for many years and have never scratched my preicious custom barrels with them. Never, Never, Never use a stainless steel brush, they will scratch barrels.
The best cleaning solvents that I use are Montana Extreme solvent and Montana Extreme 50 BMG copper solvent which are both OIL based. Pushing 4 soaking wet patches of the regular Montana Extreme through the bore and leaving it over night will remove most fouling with one application of the Montana Extreme 50 BMG copper solvent getting the rest out withing 15 minute soak. I use the brushes when I have stubborn barrels and/or need to clean in a hurry.
A good rod guide is necessary if you do not want to lap your throat egg shaped over the years. There are two companies that make good rod guides that perfectly center the rod in the bore at this time, Neil Jones ( 814-763-2769 in Pa.) and Lucas. Rod guides never wear out, and are a great investment in your equipment, costing $35 or so.
Bullet seating depth is critical to maximizing the accuracy of your rifle, it is as important as your powder charge.
There are two tools that you need to measure your seating depth properly, a Over All Length gage made by Rajun Cajun who is a moderator on this board. Rajun Cajun's tool is very easy to use and accurate, and at $25 is a steal. Another tool that you will need to use in conjunction with Rajun's tool is a Ogive gage sold by www.sinclairintl.com called a Davidson ogive gage which will enable you to measue the seating depth off the ogive of the bullet instead of the point. Using these two divices, you will be able to measure the seating depth down to the .001.
Good luck in your new hobby!
There is also an abundance of reloading data out there from sources such as Alliant Powders, Winchester and Hodgdon. It is published from the powder manufacturer's perspective. Good info, especially when compared to the data the bullet manufacturers provide in the manuals. I second the post that velocity is secondary. If you can't hit 'em, it don't matter how fast it shoots.
Evil_Lurker
New member
I'd agree that if you insist on developing loads that are at the extreme of what the cartridge can handle, you will eventually regret it.
A "good" load, in my opinion, doesn't show pressure signs like flattened primers or heavy extraction forces and the powder fills the case very close to the bullet base or even a slight compression. The less "air space" in the case, the better. I've had my best accuracy with loads that are just short of being compressed (case full to bottom of neck).
You'll probably have to use the powder burn chart and some experimentation to find the best powder/bullet combination for your rifle, and a chrono is a worthwhile investment.
A "good" load, in my opinion, doesn't show pressure signs like flattened primers or heavy extraction forces and the powder fills the case very close to the bullet base or even a slight compression. The less "air space" in the case, the better. I've had my best accuracy with loads that are just short of being compressed (case full to bottom of neck).
You'll probably have to use the powder burn chart and some experimentation to find the best powder/bullet combination for your rifle, and a chrono is a worthwhile investment.
stiff neck
New member
Every one of the blunders and accidents posted above could have been avoided by following the basic rules that are printed in any reloading manual. Don't drink while loading, don't have distractions in the background, always start low and work up loads, don't use your reloads in a rifle they were not worked up for, don't load hot or weak loads, if you change ANY component you must start your testing over working low to high, pay attention and double check everything before you cut/pour/seat/load, etc. All the safety rules are right there in the manual, and most of them are just plain common sense. People who take shortcuts are asking for trouble.
Varmonter
New member
Iv'e been reloading most of my adult life.
I have seldom used or even tried max loads and when i did i usually ended up well below them as my go to round.
I have seldom seen max loads be the most accurate.
So usually i find a happy medium between min and max that gives me the best pattern.My .204 Ruger i load to about 3800
fps well below the max of around 4200.This yields me superior
accuracy and still enough umph to whack anything around these hills..I don't burn up the barrel at the range or busy hunts.
so the gun is more pleasant to shoot(not that the 204 kimber is a hard kick.) saves a few grains of powder and is the most accurate load in that rifle. .210 in 3 shot group is my best to date.
I have seldom used or even tried max loads and when i did i usually ended up well below them as my go to round.
I have seldom seen max loads be the most accurate.
So usually i find a happy medium between min and max that gives me the best pattern.My .204 Ruger i load to about 3800
fps well below the max of around 4200.This yields me superior
accuracy and still enough umph to whack anything around these hills..I don't burn up the barrel at the range or busy hunts.
so the gun is more pleasant to shoot(not that the 204 kimber is a hard kick.) saves a few grains of powder and is the most accurate load in that rifle. .210 in 3 shot group is my best to date.
win22250
New member
Geez Luize it sure is tough to add anything to whats already been said here. About all I can add is related to military brass. Military brass is typically thicker than commercial brass so your internal case capacity will be SMALLER with the military brass. Keep that in mind when charging with powder. Smaller internal case capacity INCREASES case pressure, all other variables being the same.
Myself like a lot here that roll their own, have had the same experience that max loads never seem to be the most accurate loads. I stick to middle of the road, then experiment with bullet styles, bullet weight,powder types, etc.
Myself like a lot here that roll their own, have had the same experience that max loads never seem to be the most accurate loads. I stick to middle of the road, then experiment with bullet styles, bullet weight,powder types, etc.
dont trust that what you think your buying is what your getting, I just bought some magnum primers from walmart, got home opened them up and found it was missing several,then I lookaed closer and found small rifle primers mixed in the box! so who knows if the others are what they are supposed to be. funny how they lock up items such as car stereos but their primers and powders are left out in the open to be tampered with
I have been reloading for a couple of months and have been using the COL listed in my manuals for seating the bullet depths. I bought a Nosler reloading manual because I want to try the CT Ballistic Silvertip and their manual doesn't show the COL used on their bullets. Instead it has a section for determining the proper seating depth. I found that if I use this method it makes my overall length quite a bit longer than what is listed in the other manuals. Staying on the side of caution, I wanted to see if anyone here uses this method and could give me some input.
sav10LE_308
New member
I'll throw in a few thoughts.
Sort your brass first. If using different kinds be aware the have different internal volumes. Different kinds of brass will may equal different loads. at a minimum I try to keep them in batches by kind (manufacture), and how many times fired.
also I've heard of folks wanting to shine their pretty new rounds when their all done by tumbling them. NOT RECOMENDED. the tumbling will break the powder down to basically flash powder. tumble them too long and they can become very dangerous.
Sort your brass first. If using different kinds be aware the have different internal volumes. Different kinds of brass will may equal different loads. at a minimum I try to keep them in batches by kind (manufacture), and how many times fired.
also I've heard of folks wanting to shine their pretty new rounds when their all done by tumbling them. NOT RECOMENDED. the tumbling will break the powder down to basically flash powder. tumble them too long and they can become very dangerous.
foxxpro
New member
The best way I have found to keep my brass sorted is get some plastic boxes or small buckets and number them, each time you shoot them put them in the box with the number of times they have been fired so you can keep track. You can get small boxes and stack them if you dont have much room. All of mine fit on the top shelf of my reloading bench.
gobblr addict
New member
I have been reloading for 20yrs. I have a Pacific/Hornady single stage.
I too have never seen maximum velocity= accuracy. I bought 2-.204's when they came out. Never got speeds like Hornady and Ruger professed without seeing high pressure signs. My most accurate loads come from moderate velocities, 300-400fps slower than people say they were getting.
Having 2 .204's, both Remingtons, I figured I'd try some loads from my Rem.7 just to shoot in my new XR-100. Wrong. The chambers were completely different, so much so, I could not even close the bolt on my XR-100....
You'd think two like calibers from the same manufacturer would at least be interchangeable....WRONG! And many people do this by shooting a friends reloads. Never do this....
To keep these same .204's separate, I use brass and primers for one gun, and different brass and primers for the other. Remington primer-gold, Federal primers-silver. Any method to keep from getting cases and loads mixed is worthwhile.
I owe all my gun's accuracy to my pickyness in reloading. I weigh each load, never just use lever powder measures. And I mic each case after resizing either neck size or full length, everytime. A micrometer is a must, and I too, have no less than 4 reloading manuals to use as a cross-reference.
Getting loads offa forum like this for new reloaders is fine, but look at manuals scrutinizing the info you get from these forums. People on here are for the most part veteran shooters and reloaders, and give good info on loads. Just always verify and drop back 5 grains first. Look for pressure signs closely. It'll be well worth your time to use load data from here, just do not start with the exact load, as your gun may not handle the load....gobblr addict
I too have never seen maximum velocity= accuracy. I bought 2-.204's when they came out. Never got speeds like Hornady and Ruger professed without seeing high pressure signs. My most accurate loads come from moderate velocities, 300-400fps slower than people say they were getting.
Having 2 .204's, both Remingtons, I figured I'd try some loads from my Rem.7 just to shoot in my new XR-100. Wrong. The chambers were completely different, so much so, I could not even close the bolt on my XR-100....
You'd think two like calibers from the same manufacturer would at least be interchangeable....WRONG! And many people do this by shooting a friends reloads. Never do this....
To keep these same .204's separate, I use brass and primers for one gun, and different brass and primers for the other. Remington primer-gold, Federal primers-silver. Any method to keep from getting cases and loads mixed is worthwhile.
I owe all my gun's accuracy to my pickyness in reloading. I weigh each load, never just use lever powder measures. And I mic each case after resizing either neck size or full length, everytime. A micrometer is a must, and I too, have no less than 4 reloading manuals to use as a cross-reference.
Getting loads offa forum like this for new reloaders is fine, but look at manuals scrutinizing the info you get from these forums. People on here are for the most part veteran shooters and reloaders, and give good info on loads. Just always verify and drop back 5 grains first. Look for pressure signs closely. It'll be well worth your time to use load data from here, just do not start with the exact load, as your gun may not handle the load....gobblr addict
pdhunter
New member
Maybe some said this and I missed but I will say it again.
Like your mother would say " clean your room ".
Clutter , spilled powder, loose brass & bullets , ect.
can and will cause real problems.
Also have only 1 can of powder on the bench at at a time
as well as 1 type of primers.
Enjoy this great hobby , but do it safly
Like your mother would say " clean your room ".
Clutter , spilled powder, loose brass & bullets , ect.
can and will cause real problems.
Also have only 1 can of powder on the bench at at a time
as well as 1 type of primers.
Enjoy this great hobby , but do it safly
griffon
New member
Quote:
A lot of new reloaders tend to ignore the advice in the reloading books, you see their posts on various message boards where they have just started loading and went right to the maximum loads listed in the reloading books.
Reloading books list their loads in different ways, some only give the maximum loads and advise to start at 10% lower, and some others list a starting load and a max load, if there is a starting load, use it!
If there is only one load listed, start at 10% LESS, and as mentioned, don't go to max loads in cold weather, it might cause a problem when the weather gets hot.
One of the major things, get a good reloading book and read it!
Here's a good one and it's a new edition, so it's up to date: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=438424
Some powders like Varget are very temperature stable, allowing one to use the same loads in any weather. I've been reloading for 40 years and have learned to apply the "KISS" principle. Use as few different powers, primers and other components as you can. Look at the manufacturer's data closely before choosing and find a good load and stick with it.
You don't need a lot of different powdwers around and certainly only have one (the one you are currently using) on the bench at a time.
Do not use the wrong primer.
Keep records of all loads
These are just a few tips that come to mind.
A lot of new reloaders tend to ignore the advice in the reloading books, you see their posts on various message boards where they have just started loading and went right to the maximum loads listed in the reloading books.
Reloading books list their loads in different ways, some only give the maximum loads and advise to start at 10% lower, and some others list a starting load and a max load, if there is a starting load, use it!
If there is only one load listed, start at 10% LESS, and as mentioned, don't go to max loads in cold weather, it might cause a problem when the weather gets hot.
One of the major things, get a good reloading book and read it!
Here's a good one and it's a new edition, so it's up to date: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=438424
Some powders like Varget are very temperature stable, allowing one to use the same loads in any weather. I've been reloading for 40 years and have learned to apply the "KISS" principle. Use as few different powers, primers and other components as you can. Look at the manufacturer's data closely before choosing and find a good load and stick with it.
You don't need a lot of different powdwers around and certainly only have one (the one you are currently using) on the bench at a time.
Do not use the wrong primer.
Keep records of all loads
These are just a few tips that come to mind.
rivetgun55
New member
Once you figure out what you are doing !!! Always use the same sequence. Don't rearrange your steps. Early on I had to add an important step. While firing my H&K P9 45 auto one shot just sounded a bit different. I almost squeezed off another shot. Glad i didn't! checked pistol and had a bullet stuck in barrel. I missed charging one. I then added
the step of after charging a tray I physicaly look in each piece of brass to make sure I don't miss another. 25 years later Never have missed one. Good thing. I value my limbs!
the step of after charging a tray I physicaly look in each piece of brass to make sure I don't miss another. 25 years later Never have missed one. Good thing. I value my limbs!
I have not seen it stated here and I am just starting out, but would it make sense to weigh your completed rounds and avoid any mistake in the charged uncharged scenario. Obviously you would need to know what a properly assembled cartridge weighs but seems like you could do this a tray at a time if you calculate the weight correctly the first time.
BigBadJohn
New member
I start at the starting load amount an i load four then i go up two gr then load four then go up two more an so on, then i shot them on a lead sled to find the best group then thats what i will load, an you need to keep the bullet lenght the same to...you need a clean,quite place so you can focus on the reloading so you dont get hurt an you can make better ammo...