1st Time Suppressor owner…Questions

G

greengt88

Well-known member
Picking up my 1st suppressor tomorrow.
It’s a SilencerCo Hybrid 46M

What re some things I should be aware of and do’s/don’t?

Some questions I had are:

It’s a sealed design, no cleaning other than a bore brush from what I’ve read. What solvents are ok?
Do I need to use anti-seize on the cap and mount threads?
Should I use Teflon tape on my barrel threads to prevent walking?
How often should I be tightening it? After every shot or ?

Waited so long, really don’t want to screw anything up!
 
I don't clean my sealed units at all.

I do use antiseize, but many, maybe even most don't.

NO teflon tape. BAD idea.

Tighten it when and if it gets loose. I check mine every time I pull the rifle out of the Jeep. But they're never loose. I've seen them get loose though, it does happen. Should be so infrequent as to be a non-issue. Just check it before you start shooting or before walking to a stand.

- DAA
 
I'd check with Silencer Co. on the cleaning.

I direct thread mine, meaning I don't use any sort of mounting system. Each time I change it from one rifle to another I always put some gun oil on the threads. I hand tighten mine then grab a rag to give me a little more grip and give it a good go then I'm done.

When I'm shooting I usually check mine every now and then, no certain number of shots. I also check my end cap.
 
I use a subsonic cleaner and CLR on my suppressor with removable baffle stacks and only clean the baffles in the solvent.

However, a lot of companies are going the 3D printing route and have developed special solvents and cleaner made with instructions for sealed cans (even sealed 22 RF cans) which they don't recommend cleaning until the can weighs 2-3 oz (something like that) more than the original weight. My original can is sealed (6 plus years old) and was moved rifle to rifle and never has been cleaned and it weighs 3/4 oz more than original weight but it was only used on centerfire calibers of 223 up to 300 Win Mag.

Lots of Youtube videos showing the different cleaning methods along with the do's and dont's as some chemicals are safe on one material but not on another.

I moved to taper mounts on cans with the HUB System (no worries of loosing). I do own several direct thread cans that I check before and after firing and I use Anti seize on all my threads too.

Here's one of many on YT:

 
Last edited:
Excellent guys, thanks for sharing your insights.
I will be using direct thread. I will also see what the dealer recommends. I always like to hear from people that are using them in the field vs YouTube videos.
Seems like the anti-seize or oil is personal preference, and the Teflon tape is probably a don’t do.
Not much info I can find on SilencerCo website regarding cleaning. Their website has also been down for a few days, so can’t look at anything on there.
 
I just screw mine on and break it every so often mainly to make sure it’s tight and doesn’t “seal” on the threads. May need to clean mine eventually.
 
My sealed can is over 12 yrs old and never been cleaned.
I do use high temp (copper) anti-seize periodically just to prevent things from getting carbon seized, especially on the front and rear caps of my serviceable rf can.
 
Picked up the suppressor, should I take the caps off and clean the threads out?
Seems to be some gunk in the threads, not sure if it’s from machining or post production assembly grease I should just leave alone.
 
Not so much worried about baffle strikes, more galling/carbon buildup and not being able to loosen it, or tighten properly…I probably am way over thinking it.
I will see if I can get pictures of the gunk I’m seeing and post them when I get home from work.
I thoroughly clean any new rifle, scope rings, mounts etc. They all have oil/residue from manufacturing on them, in the threaded holes. You’d be surprised how dirty even scope rings are.
Going with same train of thought for the suppressor.
I blame my grandfather, he was a M2 squad leader in Korea. All my firearms are uber clean.
 
If you have an accurate scale, weigh your new can, & write it down. As they get dirty, they will get heavier, but I forget the recommended gain to consider when to clean.

I always keep the threads greased, & by habit, continually give them a quick twist to make sure they're still tight.

I'm probably going to buy a sonic cleaner to clean the non serviceable ones.
 
I also use copper anti seize on my direct thread muzzles. My full auto rated can is torqued to spec,needs wrench to remove. My hunting can is hand tighten, once in well below 0 temps I found it very slightly "loose" after riding in a hard case in the back of a truck all day. So I check it in the winter when leaving the truck. I check and make sure there is no anti seize on the shoulder of the muzzle before threading on the can.
 
Not a great picture of the crud in the threads
IMG_5944.jpeg


This is what I was able to get off, did the direct mount as well as threads inside suppressor.
Just shop towels and cleaning brush.
IMG_5945.jpeg
IMG_5945.jpeg
 
Now that you have it cleaned off just put you a few small dabs of gun oil on the threads, put it back together, and go kill stuff....... Silently.


I will say that I usually just grab whatever oil is in front of me, but I have noticed that when I use the RemOil the suppressor is always easier to take off than with most of the other oils.

If it helps. I treat my suppressor the same way I treat the screw in chokes on my shotguns. I lube them, install them, check them with my finger whenever I take the gun out of the case to use it and if I'm shooting a lot I will at some point during the shoot, check it again.
 
alf said:
More important that they are in alignment, rather than the orientation.
Click to expand...
Good to know, it’s a sealed unit so pretty sure they are permanently aligned. Wasn’t sure if they needed to be at 6 or 12 o’clock or if it didn’t matter.
 
Back
Top