Absolute firearm and hunting newb, checking in

Thundercat710

Thundercat710

New member
Hello all,

Out of nowhere for the last couple months I've had predator hunting on my mind. I've never hunted, never owned a firearm, but it's all I have been thinking about for a good little bit here lately.

I'm out in Oregon, and don't have any idea about where predators are around here (I'm sure they're out in the central and eastern half of the state - I'm in the NW part of the state, up past PDX).

I've decided I want to build an AR-15 that can predator hunt. Being an absolute newb with firearms, the fact that every single component of an AR-15 has like 300 choices makes it all kind of overwhelming. I'd like to build my own, just to try and learn a little bit more how they work and why they work.

I'm thinking of (tentatively, hence why I'm posting here, asking you all for your advice and opinions) building around a Ballistic Advantage 18" 223 Wylde (there are a couple options on those - fluted barrel bomber, dimples, etc - not sure what all I need or want), a LaRue MBT 2S, and a Diamondback 4-16x44 FFP that my neighbor will sell me for $200.

Is this a decent starting point from which to build off of? What would you change about it, if anything?

Also, my plan is to get aero upper/lower, and then haven't really thought about what other components to pick to finish this thing.

In my wildest dreams I think going suppressed and doing night hunting sounds amazing as hell and I would love to do that someday, if that factors into any decisions I should make now.

Thanks for reading, cheers!
 
Every red-blooded American should own at least one AR, so I think you're on the right track. Have you at least shot one before or have a buddy with one?
If not, I'm not sure I'd advise building an AR right out of the gate because while it's not too difficult, there's a lot of things to consider, and unless you're familiar with all the parts, you won't know what makes a good part of combination of parts.

Couple of tips:
- Get the longest gas system you can for whatever length barrel you go with. So, for example, for an 18" barrel, I would get one with rifle-length gas, not mid-length or carbine.
- Get a clamp-on style adjustable gas block. This plus the longer gas system will save you a lot of headaches when (not if) you get a suppressor.
- Consider a nickel boron or DLC coated bolt carrier group. That will make cleaning easier.
- Get an oversized ambi charging handle (there's a lot to choose from, and most are pretty darn good) right away. It makes charging a scoped AR much easier.
- Get an M-lock hand guard. That makes attaching things simple. The length all depends on what look you're going for and if you want the gas block to be covered or not.
- There are 2 different types of buffer tube specs, and therefore two different types of butt stock specs: "commercial" and "mil-spec", and they are not interchangeable. Get mil-spec.
- Do a lot of research. YouTube has a wealth of information.
 
SupressYourself said:
Every red-blooded American should own at least one AR, so I think you're on the right track. Have you at least shot one before or have a buddy with one?
If not, I'm not sure I'd advise building an AR right out of the gate because while it's not too difficult, there's a lot of things to consider, and unless you're familiar with all the parts, you won't know what makes a good part of combination of parts.

Couple of tips:
- Get the longest gas system you can for whatever length barrel you go with. So, for example, for an 18" barrel, I would get one with rifle-length gas, not mid-length or carbine.
- Get a clamp-on style adjustable gas block. This plus the longer gas system will save you a lot of headaches when (not if) you get a suppressor.
- Consider a nickel boron or DLC coated bolt carrier group. That will make cleaning easier.
- Get an oversized ambi charging handle (there's a lot to choose from, and most are pretty darn good) right away. It makes charging a scoped AR much easier.
- Get an M-lock hand guard. That makes attaching things simple. The length all depends on what look you're going for and if you want the gas block to be covered or not.
- There are 2 different types of buffer tube specs, and therefore two different types of butt stock specs: "commercial" and "mil-spec", and they are not interchangeable. Get mil-spec.
- Do a lot of research. YouTube has a wealth of information.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks. Yeah i have a couple of friends who've built dozens and dozens of ARs and want to walk me through it after I get my components.
 
SupressYourself said:
Couple of tips:
- Get the longest gas system you can for whatever length barrel you go with. So, for example, for an 18" barrel, I would get one with rifle-length gas, not mid-length or carbine.
- Get an M-lock hand guard. That makes attaching things simple. The length all depends on what look you're going for and if you want the gas block to be covered or not.
- There are 2 different types of buffer tube specs, and therefore two different types of butt stock specs: "commercial" and "mil-spec", and they are not interchangeable. Get mil-spec.
Click to expand...
I see so much about getting midlength gas, can you explain a bit about why rifle length is advantageous?

Why would one want the gas block covered or not?

What is better about the mil spec?

I'm not trying to sound like I'm second guessing you, just trying to learn

Thanks for your feedback!
 
do you self a favor and get a FLAT shooting cartridge, it'll make you more efficient and lethal, you won't regret it. 204, 22-250 or a 243 are great cartridges IMO. Go to the range and practice, practice and practice until that weapon is a integrated part of you. here's a ballistics chart for cartridge reference. Hornady Ballistics Chart
 
A year ago I didn’t know much about firearms either. Most of what I now know came from this YouTube channel gunblue490. Lots of good stuff in there from how to shoot, how to clean guns, different types of guns, and more. Here’s the link: GunBlue490
 
As mentioned above, I'd spend a lot of time on YouTube. You can learn just about anything off of there.

Another suggestion would be to go to somewhere like PSA and buy an already complete AR, learn it then go from there. Their AR's are decent quality for the money.
 
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i bought a DPMS M4 mil-spec shortly after the clinton ban expired. i slowly changed things over the years to get it where i want it.
it now has a Rock river arms two stage trigger and a wilson combat fluted, heavy 20" super sniper barrel in 223 wylde 1:8 twist and shoots federal factory 53 grain v-max like darts. it will shoot 1/2 groups at 200 yards from the bench when i do my part. it also has a bering optics super yoter and yankee hill machine turbo T-2 suppressor

i also had a gunsmith install things :)

Dave rodgers 11-16-23 (3).JPG
 
If you have friends that have built dozens and dozens, why are you on here asking for advice? Think I’d be talking to them on what to get.

In your case I’d buy first, then build. Buy enough caliber to get the job done and to be used for other things since you don’t own anything at all now. Practice and learn with it, then decided what you want in an AR and build.
 
Thundercat710 said:
I see so much about getting midlength gas, can you explain a bit about why rifle length is advantageous?

Why would one want the gas block covered or not?

What is better about the mil spec?

I'm not trying to sound like I'm second guessing you, just trying to learn

Thanks for your feedback!
Click to expand...
Rifle length is longer, which means, given the same barrel length, the distance from the gas port to the muzzle is shorter, which means the gas has less time to be forced down the gas tube before the bullet exits the muzzle. It all adds up to a less gassy, "softer shooting" rifle.
Now obviously there are limits to gas system length. At a certain point, the rifle will no longer have enough gas to function. For example, Rifle length gas on a 18" barrel works, but it would not likely work very well on a 16" barrel. On 18" barrels, mid-length is probably more common because most manufacturers will err on the side of over-gassed.
To be clear, you won't be hampered by a mid-length system on an 18" barrel, especially if you get an adjustable gas block to dial it in. Rifle length would just make things a bit more pleasant, especially when you put a can on the end.

The handguard length is mostly an aesthetics thing. I suppose there is value in protecting the gas block and tube on a "battle rifle", but not terribly important on a coyote rifle.
If you have an adjustable gas block, it's going to be easier to adjust if it's not covered. On a few of my builds, I picked a length that partially covers the block. That way the tube is protected, but I can still easily get to the front of the block to adjust gas if needed.

Mill-spec buffer tubes and stocks are "better" only because they're more common. If you decide to swap the stock out for something else later, you'll have more options. The main take away is that the tube and the stock have to be the same spec.
 
Newpond0 said:
A year ago I didn’t know much about firearms either. Most of what I now know came from this YouTube channel gunblue490. Lots of good stuff in there from how to shoot, how to clean guns, different types of guns, and more. Here’s the link: GunBlue490
Click to expand...
I randomly stumbled onto that guy's channel two weeks ago, holy crap. Encyclopedia of knowledge, and I love his straightforward delivery. Great channel!!
 
Spurchaser said:
If you have friends that have built dozens and dozens, why are you on here asking for advice?
Click to expand...
They don't do predator hunting. I know they know how to assemble whatever pieces I end up going with, but I'm asking you all what pieces I should consider in the first place, if that makes sense. Also, I'm just excited about all of it and want to talk with you all and get more input.
 
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bohunr said:
i bought a DPMS M4 mil-spec shortly after the clinton ban expired. i slowly changed things over the years to get it where i want it.
it now has a Rock river arms two stage trigger and a wilson combat fluted, heavy 20" super sniper barrel in 223 wylde 1:8 twist and shoots federal factory 53 grain v-max like darts. it will shoot 1/2 groups at 200 yards from the bench when i do my part. it also has a bering optics super yoter and yankee hill machine turbo T-2 suppressor

i also had a gunsmith install things :)

View attachment 13968
Click to expand...
My general reaction to this picture is "Hell yes." :LOL:
 
Thundercat710 said:
They don't do predator hunting. I know they know how to assemble whatever pieces I end up going with, but I'm asking you all what pieces I should consider in the first place, if that makes sense. Also, I'm just excited about all of it and want to talk with you all and get more input.
Click to expand...
have they built any that are accurate ? or just fun guns loaded with tactical stuff ? if they built a target rifle thats a tack driver, thats what you want. if you plan on a suppressor you will need a threaded heavy barrel, not a pencil thin mil-spec barrel. also a fluted barrel cuts down on the weight a little bit
 
bohunr said:
have they built any that are accurate ? or just fun guns loaded with tactical stuff ? if they built a target rifle thats a tack driver, thats what you want. if you plan on a suppressor you will need a threaded heavy barrel, not a pencil thin mil-spec barrel. also a fluted barrel cuts down on the weight a little bit
Click to expand...
Yeah they have, for sure.

I was thinking about getting the 18" 223 Wylde Fluted Dimpled Barrel Bomber from Ballistic Advantage. I don't have an unlimited budget but I understand that the barrel is the big deal as far as accuracy, and I've seen good things about BA. I'm of course open to suggestions and opinions about length and manufacturer, I'm not dead set on anything.

I'm wondering if I should (with the plan to eventually be going suppressed) stick to 18, or go 20"? Also, carbine or rifle buffer? Is rifle buffer starting to make it really long and heavy when it's all said and done?

Appreciate whatever thoughts you have on it, cheers
 
There’s no specific “predator” rifle/AR/shotgun or caliber/gauge.
There’s only what you have or want to shoot. If your buddies are building tack drivers I’d go with that. Or start off with something like Alf showed and see what you like or dislike.
 
What kind of predators you planning on calling? Lots of bears in Oregon you can call those too but might need a bit more pop than a woodchuck
 
@Thundercat710

First, like I told my brother-in-law, when I got him hooked on guns, "welcome to the illness."

Second, I used to try to dissuade people from "building" (like when I was a kid and "built" a Lego castle) their own AR's, but I now think I was wrong in doing that. If you have the budget for several oopsies, then go for it. The more you get your hands and mind around the components, the more you learn to appreciate guns and I think that's good for a newbie.

Third, as far as your components, it sounds like you are going in the correct direction. The LaRue MBT-2s is, just in my opinion, one of the finest 2-stage AR triggers available. I mean, it is just disgustingly good. I've had good luck with BA barrels and they are reasonably priced. My only suggestion on your barrel is to go with a 1:7 twist if you want to launch the heavier .223 projectiles. With the $ you are saving on the Vortex, pick up some Vortex rings, which are handy because they put the torque specs on the side of the rings, or look into an ADM QD mount.

Fourth, as far as predators in your neck of the woods, there is a solid lion population over there. I'd start with coyotes because you will likely have a higher success rate and, like anything else, the more you win, the more you will like something. However, if you are using any kind of distress/prey call in lion country, pick up a lion tag before you go. Why? Because it's a great insurance policy. You just might call in a lion and I'd hate to see you be stuck with the shoot/no shoot choice and risk being charged with unlawful hunting of big game. I'm not saying anyone who pops a lion without a tag should be prosecuted; I am saying it is a very likely possibility.

Finally, I won't say what I do for a living, but it relates to point four, above. When you are out in the woods, don't just know the hunting rules and regulations. KNOW YOUR RIGHTS, which include (and I can't tell you how many clients ignored this advice) exercising your right to remain silent.

Best wishes and, once again, welcome to the illness.
 
Thundercat710 said:
Yeah they have, for sure.

I was thinking about getting the 18" 223 Wylde Fluted Dimpled Barrel Bomber from Ballistic Advantage. I don't have an unlimited budget but I understand that the barrel is the big deal as far as accuracy, and I've seen good things about BA. I'm of course open to suggestions and opinions about length and manufacturer, I'm not dead set on anything.

I'm wondering if I should (with the plan to eventually be going suppressed) stick to 18, or go 20"? Also, carbine or rifle buffer? Is rifle buffer starting to make it really long and heavy when it's all said and done?

Appreciate whatever thoughts you have on it, cheers
Click to expand...
i never built one, so i dont know.
 
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